I was going to say they are louder, but double checking and both sizes are 25 watts per speaker.
They aren't bi amped either (a dedicated amp for woofer and one for tweeter), so it looks like there is one 50 watt amp for both speakers, or the rca feeds power to a 25 watt amp in the passive one; I dunno. Still says peak SPL is 100dB though.
So I'm not sure what I just paid the double the price for lol.
If you have a bigger cone, then you should have a wider sweet spot and a fuller sound.
You have a bigger magnet, bigger cone, bigger box and (supposed to have) bigger amp for louder output. So technically it should fill up the air with more fuller sound around you better, if its bigger. On paper it's supposed to be better all around.
I think these differences between larger speakers (6" to 7" etc.) aren't as much as these small ones (3.5" to 4.5").
You're on the right track with that. A sub is supposed to extend the frequency range, not add more bass. That's why they have a crossover knob. So you can choose where they start filling the gap for whatever sized speaker you have, instead of overlapping what the speakers already do, thereby wasting your money buying the sub.But if we combine it with a PreSonus Eris Sub 8, having a 3.5 or 4.5 will make a difference?
For music makers, a sub is there so you can hear what's going on down there and make decisions about that. For music listeners, it's to get more bass.
The low end of human hearing isn't 80 Hz. It's 20 Hz. Anything that doesn't go down to 20 Hz is technically not good enough to say you have a proper tool for analyzing your song. Without a sub, anything in the song that sends a signal lower than 80 Hz doesn't exist to you because the signal dies at the speaker before being converted because it can't convert it. The consumer usually doesn't have speakers to hear it either, but you yourself can hear what changing the low end does to the rest of the music too, at the same time of hearing the low end. Because of the sub.Eris Sub 8 has a frequency range of 30 Hz – 200 Hz
+ 3.5's 80 Hz to 20 kHz will give enough frequency range
I dont know the above idea is technically correct or not. Hope someone in this forum can comments on that.
It's good to also feel what the low end does, not just hear it. That's a thing in itself.
20 kHz is the highest end (depending on age) and so to me the high end on these speakers is good enough (on paper that is). It's good for some high end speakers to go higher though, because all frequencies can affect all others, technically. Guess you could just eq high shelf cut (roll off) all your music at 20 Hz and call it a day. Haven't studied the efficacy of that strategy though.
No monitor can replace the role of a subwoofer. Even the high end monitors sold in the thousands of dollars each have recommended subwoofers to accompany the monitors.PreSonus Eris E3.5 BT + Eris Sub 8 = $ 140 + 200 = 340 (Is there a better studio monitor pair without sub woofer for this price ($340) which can give better results??)
PreSonus Eris E4.5 BT + Eris Sub 8 = $ 230 + 200 = 430
Difference = $ 90
I would say the two satellite speakers (one left and one right) and the subwoofer is a must, regardless of what brand, price or sizes.
Most consumers listen to music with ear pods streaming on their smart phone or the junk radio they have at work; listening to the same 10 songs over and over for years on end, in between the ads and talking bobble heads telling them how to live.
But that doesn't mean the source material is forgivable. If you can't hear the information correctly and you make mistakes because of that, then it still does translate over to these lesser consumer listening devices. A good mix still sounds better through their junk speakers than a bad mix.
That's another thing I like. Not having to reach behind the speaker and fumble the fingers around to find the volume switch.I see buying 3.5 or 4.5 and later adding Eris Sub 8 is a nice option as other 5" size dont give blue tooth, volume control and headphone slots in the front.
Another good thing about the daisy chain is that with one volume knob, you know that both are level matched always.
This is a guess; no idea if the passive speaker was built properly to send the exact same dB's. I will probably double check that when I get them.
You're also supposed to move the sub back or forth until you lose most of your volume with phase cancellation and then invert its polarity. (Phase matching). And treat your room using tried and true techniques. I haven't done that yet; another reason I need to wait on a proper speaker system.
Been studying all these things recently. About half way through the audio myths workshop video too. It's fantastic. I especially like how humans having an expectation bias about something changes how we hear it. We hear what we want to hear. It's mind boggling.